Saturday, March 21, 2015



American Rabbit Breeder's Association (ARBA) 
Bloomington, IL 61702
Phone:  309-664-7500

Holland Lop Rabbit Specialty Club (HLRSC)
Chesapeake, VA 23322
Phone:  757-421-9607
Email: or


Excellent information on feeding, watering & supplementing your Holland Lop's diet from Utah's Honeyville Rabbitry:

"Judging Holland Lops" by Chris Zemny, ARBA judge linked from

Basic Rabbit Genetics by Oak Ridge Rabbitry linked from

Another interesting rabbit genetics article from Nature Trail Rabbitry

Color chart & pics from Amy's Rabbit Ranch

Color chart from Marell's & Raeben's Rabbits:

Another excellent color chart from Sleepy Hollow Rabbitry


*Some web sites used or linked under the Fair Use Rules of the U.S. Copyright Law.


Holland Lop Standard of Perfection

Groups: Agouti–Broken–Pointed White–Self–Shaded–Tan Pattern–Ticked–Wide Band
To be entered and shown in two classifications–Broken Pattern & Solid Pattern
The 2011-2015 ARBA SOP Holland Lop photo.
General Type …………………………….. 84
BODY, BONE……………….42
Bone, Feet, Legs….10
Fur ……………………………………………..7
Color & Markings……………………………4
Condition …………………………………… 5
Total Points ……………………. 100

Senior Bucks and Does–6 months of age & over, weight not over 4 pounds.
Junior Bucks and Does–Under 6 months of age.  Minimum weight 2 pounds.
NOTE:  No animal may be shown in a higher age classification than its true age.  All colors are to be shown as Solid or Broken Pattern.  Recognized colors within a group are not to be judged separately.

NOTE:  Holland Lops should be posed with the front feet resting lightly on the table. When ideally posed and viewed from the front, the head should be carried high on the shoulders, and close to the shoulders, exposing a deep, well filled chest and short, thick front legs.  Holland Lops should not be pushed down with the forelegs flat on the table.  Holland Lops are generally of an excitable nature and will often exhibit poor ear carriage when being handled on the show table.  In order to properly evaluate an animal’s ear carriage, the animal should be allowed to relax.

BODY–Points 32:  The general aspect of the body is short, massive, and thick set.  The shoulders and chest should be broad and well filled.  The shoulders should be deep, with the depth exhibited at the shoulders of an ideally posed animal being carried back to hindquarters of equal or slightly greater depth.  The width of the shoulders should be nearly equal to, but not exceed the width of the hindquarters.  The hindquarters should be broad, deep, well rounded, and well filled to the lower portions.  The animals is to be heavily muscled, short-coupled, compact, and well balanced is length, width, and depth.  A small, simple dewlap is permitted in does.

Faults–Lacking depth throughout the body; long, low or narrow shoulders; chopped, pinched, or undercut hindquarters flatness over the hips; large dewlap in does.  Fault severely for long or narrow body.

HEAD–Points 24:  When viewed from the front, the head is to have good width, which begins at the base of the ears and carries down between the eyes to an extremely short and well filled muzzle.  When viewed from the side, the head is round from the base of the ears, to a slight flattening between the eyes and the muzzle and then to continue rounding from the lower portion to the muzzle to the neck.  The eye is to be bold and deep set.  The head is to be massive in appearance and set high and close to the shoulders.  The size of the head is to be in proportion to the size of the body.
Faults–Pinched muzzle; narrowness between the eyes; head too small to balance with the body.  Fault severely for narrow or long head.

EARS–Points 10:  The ears should lop vertically on both sides of the head from a strongly defined and properly positioned crown.  The ears should hang close to the cheeks, with the openings turned towards the head.  When viewed from the front, the outline of the ears and crown should resemble a horseshoe shape.  The ears should be thick, well furred, wide and well rounded at the tips.  The ears should hang just behind the eyes and extend no more than 1 inch below the jaw line.  Ear length and width should balance with the size of the head and body.
Faults–Pointed, narrow, thin or folded ear; poor ear carriage or placement; ear length which does not balance with the size of the animal.

CROWN- Points 8: The crown should be a strongly defined ridge consisting of both cartilage and prominent, dense fur which appears to sit on top of the head and add to its massive appearance.  the crown should wrap from just behind the top of the eye, up over the top of the head, and down just behind the top of the other eye. Proper side to side width of the crown allows the ears to lop vertically. Proper front to back width of the crown positions the ear just behind the eye and causes the ear to open fully and lay against the contour of the head and cheek. the overall impression of the crown is derived mainly by sight and should balance with the size of the head.
Faults-  Lack of strongly defined crown; narrow side to side or front to back crown width; crown not positioned just behind the eye.

BONE, FEET & LEGS–Points 10:  The legs are to be short, thick, straight an heavily boned fro the size of the animal.  White toenails are preferred on Broken Pattern animals.  Broken Patterned animals are not to be disqualified for colored or mismatched toenails.
Faults–Colored or mismatched toenails on Broken patterned animals.  Fault severely for long legs, narrow legs, or fine bone.
Disqualifications from Competition–General toenail disqualifications apply on Solid Pattern animals.  General toenail disqualifications, except toenail color, apply on Broken Pattern animals.

FUR–Points 7:  (Rollback) The fur is to be glossy, dense, fine in texture, and uniform in length.  The fur is to be approximately 1 inch in length and is to gradually roll back into normal position when it is stroked from the hindquarters to the shoulders.

COLOR & MARKINGS–Points 4:  All colors should conform to one of the recognized Holland Lop Color Guide descriptions.  The Solid pattern classification includes all recognized colors within the recognized groups.  The Broken pattern classification includes all recognized colors within the recognized groups in combination with white.
Broken pattern animals–Unbalanced nose markings; white on one or both ears, incomplete eye circles, uneven pattern distribution.
Solid pattern animals–Faults are as specified under each color description.
Disqualifications from Competition–Broken pattern animals–The complete absence of nose markings, absence of color on one or both ears, absence of color around one or both eyes.  Eye color other than specified in the color description.

CONDITION–Points 5: Per ARBA definition.

Source: Standard of Perfection published by the American Rabbit Breeder's Association. Used under the Fair Use rules of the U.S. Copyright Laws.

Friday, March 20, 2015


This checklist is designed to be very thorough for a rabbit breeder. Some items may be unnecessary for a pet rabbit.

● Rabbit feed / pellets. A mature rabbit’s ration is typically 4-6 ounces. Nursing
or young rabbits or rabbits in cold weather often need more than that.
● Hay (Alfalfa/grass hay until 6 months and then timothy hay after that is
● Cage (a wire cage is easier to clean). 1 square foot of cage space is
recommended for each pound of rabbit. A 24”x 24” cage for a Holland Lop
is typically adequate. A larger cage would be nicer for the rabbit.
● Foot rest for rabbit (could be a piece of carpet or other item to give a rest from
wire floor).
● Bedding (for cage tray; if used avoid scented wood like cedar). Aspen shavings work well.
● Other Feed could include dried bread, apples, bananas, broccoli, carrots,
cauliflower, fresh grass shavings from an untreated lawn. It is recommended to
introduce fruits and vegetables slowly to young rabbits (less than 6 months old)
like only 1 new item every week or two to avoid intestinal problems.
● Rabbit run – If rabbit would be confined to a cage a lot and not able to
hop around indoors.
● Salt lick.
● Wheat germ oil – A supplement to add to pellets periodically.
● Cider vinegar – Add a small amount to water to help avoid intestinal diseases and for other possible health and breeding benefits.
● Terramycin (an antibiotic) – Recommended if your rabbit will be outdoors,
around other rabbits, and to prevent disease.
● Feeder or crock – Automatic feeders can be filled outside of the cage
● Water bottle to ensure regular access to water. Rabbits can drink a lot of water
in hot weather. Heated water bottles, crocks or empty tuna cans are cold
weather options.
● Hide away box – To put in the cage for the rabbit to hide in or hop on top of.
● Lighting – If rabbit is outdoors in a shed it is recommended that they get at
least 12-16 hours of light a day to provide a more natural environment.
● Frozen milk jugs or water bottles are recommended in a rabbit’s cage in hot
weather. Straw in a cage in very cold weather helps keeps the rabbit warm.
●Ventilation is desired but the rabbit should be protected from cold drafts if kept
●Disinfect a rabbit’s cage regularly with Lysol, Simple Green or a more natural
cleaner like vinegar or lemon juice.
●Wood, sticks, etc. to chew on since a rabbit’s teeth grow continually.
●Book on rabbits for reference purposes.
●Litter box if rabbit will be litter box trained indoors.
●Brush for grooming and nail clippers to cut nails.